September Vacation - Melungeon Star Trail

Explore the rich history and biodiversity of Hancock County as it stretches from Clinch Mountain on its southern border to Newman’s Ridge and the Powell Mountains to the north where it lies against the southwestern border of Virginia. Start with a picnic at Elrod Falls, or enjoy the drive along the Clinch and Powell rivers, bearing witness to one of the world's most renowned and ecologically diverse bodies of water.

The year of the first settlement of the
area is uncertain. Some historians set the date at 1795 while others cite evidence of settlers receiving grants to the land much earlier. Predating all of these, however, were the people known as Melungeons who were encountered by French traders in the mountains of east Tennessee in the late 1600's.

Mahala "Big Haley" Mullins was the most famous of this group. Haley was the notorious matron of a clan of moonshiners that lived on Newman's Ridge. Her scandalous girth, gumption, and tenacity at moonshining both scandalized and amused many in her day.

All evidence points to the fact that these unique people were long ensconced on Newman’s Ridge when the first settlers made their way to the land now known as Hancock County. Hancock's relative isolation has preserved the beauty of the area, a rural quality, and many traditions of Appalachian culture.

Mahala Mullins' Cabin on Newman's Ridge Vardy Presbyterian Church Mahala Mullins' cabin is located on the site of Vardy Church. The cabin was moved to the site from Newman's Ridge to protect it from deterioration.

Overview of the Quilt Squares »

The Route:

*Note: The trip to Vardy is not recommended for large passenger or cargo vehicles. It crosses over two mountains and contains many 180-degree switchbacks and steep inclines. For this reason, the route is a favorite of experienced motorcyclists but for drivers unfamiliar with the terrain, BE AWARE of sudden curves and other increased risks associated with mountain crossing. If you've got that well in hand, you should be able to enjoy some spectacular views of the seasonal foliage and valley below.

Be sure to fuel up your vehicle before starting this trip and try to maintain as full of a tank as possible throughout your trip, in case you chance to get lost. Take advantage of public restrooms wherever you find them. They may be few and far between.

Starting from Hwy 11w at Mooresburg, go north on Hwy 31. Along this road the Crossroads Restaurant may be your last chance to stop for food, drink, and a restroom until Sneedville, forty minutes north. D & J Market & Deli [8760 Highway 31 (423) 733-9940] is well before Sneedville but does not have public restrooms.

As you tour Hancock County, notice that the quilt squares are radiating or star patterns.

Approximately 10 miles north from Mooresburg, take a side detour on Elrod Falls Road to see "Cowboy Star" quilt square at Elrod Falls. There's a picnic pavilion here but no public restroom or potable water.

Also along Hwy 31 is "Century Star" on the side of a service station about seven and a half miles after Elrod Falls Road.

Next stop: Sneedville.

Cross the bridge over the Clinch River. Across the river, there's a fueling station.

Clinch River Market 127 Tazewell Hwy,
Sneedville, TN 37869 (423) 733-4895

At this point is a junction of Hwy 31 and Hwy 33 and without a map (or even with a map) the names can get confusing. From the river, looking northward:

--Turn left and you're on Hwy 33/Tazewell Hwy, which ends at 25e near Tazewell/Claiborne County.

--Go straight (north) and you're on Hwy 33 which becomes Main Street in Sneedville for awhile.

--Turn right and you're on Roberts Road and that will take you to Kyles Ford.

We highly recommend that you take a moment to fill your tank with gas and buy a Hancock County map. There are few service stations in Hancock County and if you don't know where you are the roads will seem to wander for miles before running across people to ask directions. Cellphones may not get a signal due to the mountains. A full tank of gas and a map will ensure you have enough gas to last until you get back on track.

At Clinch River Market near the bridge, if you turn left or right, you'll run across additional quilt squares. Straight ahead, Hwy 33 becomes Main Street for a while. There are several quilt squares in the town of Sneedville, which you will easily come upon if you simply drive down all of the roads (there aren't many). Sneedville is the county seat of Hancock County and is its only incorporated town. Its population was 1,257 at the 2000 census and in the warm season, you may be surprised by how many people you see walking about town, being social with one another. Jimmy Martin, a lively performer and dubbed the "King of Bluegrass" was from Sneedville. He was recently inducted into the International Bluegrass Music Hall of Honor. Sneedville is a very friendly Appalachian town and a great getaway, especially for anyone interested in exploring their Melungeon roots and heritage.

The first painted square you may spot as you get into town, the "Dawn Star" is a colorful star quilt block placed on a red building at the west end of Main Street (Hwy 33).

To go to Vardy, turn northward off of Main Street onto Newman's Ridge Road (Hwy 63). Follow this road up over the mountain. On the other side, after driving a very short distance, turn right at Vardy Blackwater Road. As the name indicates, this road will take you through Vardy and goes all the way north to Blackwater, Virginia. Its approximately 12 miles long. Almost exactly halfway down the road (6 miles) is the TN/VA states line. Around four miles is Vardy, and about half that again, is the Rose Farm, the location of the first quilt square along this road. It's located on a black barn. Across from the barn is a lovely little white house with a very flowery garden border in season. At Vardy, you'll find the Mahala Mullins cabin, transported to this location from Newman's Ridge in order to maintain it along with the Vardy Presbyterian Church. The two buildings comprise an interesting museum about the church, Presbyterian missionaries, and the former Vardy School that were located in the Valley, plus Mahala Mullins cabin has many artifacts of the era and locale but most noticeably, lacks an antique moonshining still. If you have one and wish to donate it or anything else to the Vardy Historical Society, or to schedule a tour of the museum, contact the society at (423) 733-2305.

After the museum, continue on this road until Blackwater, Virginia. Turn right (south) on Hwy 70 toward Kyles Ford.

Next Stop: Kyles Ford.

Kyles Ford is famous for its biodiversity of mussel species. This is in fact, common throughout the Upper Clinch River but the species are protected and monitored here at the Kyles Ford Mussel Shoal preserve at the Kyles Ford Wildlife Management Area.

"Cabin Windows" quilt square is located at the River Place Market and Cafe in Kyles Ford. Here you can stock up on supplies, grab a bite to eat, or rent a cabin or historically preserved Appalachian cottage or cabin.

River Place on the Clinch, 2788 Highway 70, Kyles Ford, TN 37765 (423) 733-4400

If you'd like to end your tour of Hancock at this point, continue down this road to get to Rogersville and get back on Hwy 11w.

If you want to see more squares you may turn either way on Hwy 33 to see more or go past River Place and turn down [Joe] Alder Road, it's about 6.5 miles long. On this road, you'll come across the "Unfolding Star" quilt square on a shed at the Candle in the Wind Studio owned by Tammra and Gill Russell. Joe Alder Road comes out at Hwy 33 (Kyles Ford Road). Turn left toward Sneedville. 1 mile down Hwy 33, turn left onto Roberts Road and check out the little side roads along the river to see a couple more squares. Roberts Road runs along the river and comes back out at the bridge and the Clinch River Market service station.